Plan for fire.
By Cindy Poore
This was a crazy summer! So, so hot. I may be getting old, but I don’t remember so may days of 100 plus heat from past years. Isn’t it usually just a few (3-4) weeks? This heat is just going on and on. And the fires are not making things better.
The fire. Now THAT was scary. And it didn’t even come close to us. The Blue Cut Fire burned so fast, so hot, so unpredictably, that we were under mandatory evacuation orders. After seeing the devastation, I can understand why. They couldn’t take any risks.
We were safe and pretty far from the actual fire. I wish I could say the same for everyone. A dear, dear friend’s property was right in its path. Fires were popping up everywhere on his property. He and his son stayed behind to defend his home and buildings. They fought with tractors and shovels and were on the point of exhaustion around midnight when a group of firefighters came over the ridge and helped them fight the monster off. All his buildings were saved. Tragically, his very near neighbors and many others in his valley were not so fortunate and lost their homes.
So planning for fire in your landscaping and maintenance is essential for nearly any home. Here are some tips from the University of California Cooperative Extension:
DEFENSIBLE SPACE GUIDELINES
Below are general guidelines adapted from CAL FIRE:
1. Create and maintain a defensible space of at least 100 feet or greater from each building or structure.
2. From the home to a distance of 30 feet, keep plants low, and make sure to have irrigation available when needed. Check with your local fire department about the exact distances required in your area.
3. Preserve single specimens or groupings of well-spaced and well-pruned trees or other vegetation.
4. Eliminate ladder fuels within the defensible space zone by disrupting the vertical and/or horizontal continuity of plants.
Hi all. Just wanted to let you know things are a little crazy here in Phelan due to all the evacuations and we are not able to get to the work we have scheduled. Please be patient with us we will get back to you as soon as possible. Thank you to all the police and firefighters that are risking their lives to save our area and homes.
Nature and the interaction of people and the earth is essential to life balance. Get too far from nature and you will find that you are unsettled and cranky. We need to stop now and then and go out into nature to reconnect and find our inner calm.
Those of us who are lucky enough to have some space for a garden can bring nature home. We can build our own little natural environment to enjoy whenever we want.
Whether you have a tree and flower garden or a vegetable garden, pests can be a problem and a hindrance to your full enjoyment of your outdoor space. You put a lot of time and money into your garden, and you don’t want to let the pests eat your investment in nature. But you are also concerned about the environment, as all of us should be.
There are so many little creatures in nature. They all have a place here and a job to do. Mass destruction is not really necessary in nearly every case. There will always be some pests in your landscape. Having bugs in our landscape is unavoidable and is even desirable as they all serve some function in nature. Is the pest causing some economic or lifestyle issues? Then let’s try an integrated pest management approach.
What is integrated pest management, (also called IPM)? The basic definition of IPM according to University of California at Davis is: 1“Integrated pest management (IPM) is an ecosystem-based strategy that focuses on long-term prevention of pests or their damage through a combination of techniques such as biological control, habitat manipulation, modification of cultural practices, and use of resistant varieties. Pesticides are used only after monitoring indicates they are needed according to established guidelines, and treatments are made with the goal of removing only the target organism. Pest control materials are selected and applied in a manner that minimizes risks to human health, beneficial and nontarget organisms, and the environment.” Or put more simply, using the least toxic control method that will get the job done and reduce the pest population to the lowest threshold that will produce the least amount of damage.
The use of resistant varieties is my first choice for reducing pest issues. Of course, this assumes that you are in on the planning of your natural space before it is installed. Planning is the first step in creating your outdoor environment that can thrive with little care in the space you have. Do you have a sunny or shady spot? Is it windy? Exposed? What is the climate? How much space or light will the plants you have in mind require? All too often, people pick the plants they desire, not the plants that will do well in the space they have. It’s like saying I love that little fish! I’m gonna put him here right on my pillow where I can be near him all the time. Nope. Won’t work.
There are resistant varieties of plants that do not attract certain insects, or diseases in the conditions you have. Pick those varieties and plants that will work well there and avoid certain pest issues altogether.
You can’t really plan out all pests. So you have your natural space already AND you have pest issues. What do you do now? Well identification of your pest and understanding it’s biology and habitat is critical to control. What is it’s life cycle? Which parts of its cycle is damaging to your plants? What conditions does it thrive in? Know this and you are half way there to controlling the issue with the minimum of fuss.
Look at your cultural practices. Is the plant receiving the proper care? Does it need pruning? Are you watering enough or at the proper frequency? Is there enough sun? Perhaps the surrounding vegetation has become overgrown allowing too much shade or stagnant air patterns. Is the soil in good condition, not compacted or too wet or dry. Is the ph proper for optimum plant conditions? These are all things we can adjust to modify the conditions to improve the plant health. A healthy plant will naturally repel insects and disease.
Gophers and squirrels are notorious for liking just about every kind of plant. What do you do when they invade? Exclusion is often the answer for that. Pests like certain birds, rats and even some insects can be excluded from your garden by building walls, fences or screens and structures. There are so many possibilities depending on your situation. Traps work as well to trap and kill the intruders without chemical controls.
Then there is hand control. Got caterpillars? You can hand-pick them off. Not for the squeamish, obviously. And then there are traps and things like Tanglefoot which is a sticky substance that pests get stuck in.
Then you try biological controls, natural enemies and predators. Determine the type of pest that you have. Pretty much every pest in nature has a natural enemy or the planet would be overrun with that pest. Conditions in nature bring in the natural controls. In our artificial outdoor space, the natural controls are often out of whack. We need to supplement the environment with the natural controls. This might be anything from importing lady bugs to control aphids (aww..) to bringing in natural controls for snails and slugs like toads and snakes. ( I didn’t say it would be pretty) or birds, beneficial wasps and even bacterial pathogens like Bacillus thuringiensis, to control caterpillars . There are so many kinds of natural predators to choose from.
The next step might be to apply a chemical control to bring the pest threshold down to manageable levels. My first step in any bug issue is to wash off the plant. Pure and simple a blast of water can do wonders! It washes the majority of pests off the plant where many will not make it back to the plant. Washing off the plant often reduces the conditions that attracted the pest in the first place. Take aphids. They attract ants. Both are undesirable. Washing the aphids off the plant will not only reduce the aphid population drastically, but will also wash off the honeydew the aphids produce. The honeydew is what attracts the ants. Two for one with plain water!
The very last step in integrated best management is chemical control. As a licensed pest control applicator, I do not often resort to chemical controls. When a chemical control is warranted due to severe plant damage, with potential loss of the plant or a high value plant in danger then I consider chemical controls. When chemical controls are used, always use the least toxic product that will get the job done. It’s the responsible way to protect our earth.
1 http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/GENERAL/ipmdefinition.html
One of the main reasons I got into designing and installing landscaping was frustration. I helped maintain many home gardens and the thing I hated most was the unnecessary trimming of plants that were planted in the wrong spot.
Far too often, a plant was a beautiful plant and good for the general location according to climate, soil and desired look, but people often did not plan for the plant to grow to its mature size. Week after week…, I would have to prune back the growing ends of plants to detriment of the plant and the possibility for them to reach their fullest potential merely because they were planted where their size would be a problem as they grew. Time and money were spent to whip that plant back into the desired size, generating bushels and bushels of waste to be thrown away.
Just exactly where is “away” you (hopefully) ask? Why to the landfill. What is the problem with that? It will be buried where it will decompose, feed the earth and all that, and all will be good, right? Actually, no. In the landfill, the plant material gets broken down by anaerobic bacteria which produce carbon dioxide and methane gas, both of which are greenhouse gases and are contributing to the global climate change.
So by just choosing the correct plant in the correct location, you can cut down on your environmental footprint on the planet. A small thing, right? Well no single raindrop believes it is to blame for the flood and every person can make a difference, because when they join together they are a formidable force.
What is wrong with this picture? The photo shows something we find occasionally when we go out and do sprinkler work or landscaping for clients with existing irrigation systems. See the valves are very pretty. Tucked away in the ground in a box so you don’t have to look at them. Very professional looking, right?
These valves are anti-siphon valves. Anti-siphon valves allow water to only flow in one direction. For irrigation purposes, it prevents water from the system from… being siphoned back into the household water supply line. Essentially, it stops unsafe water from entering a clean water supply such as the water that comes from your faucets or shower heads.
Anti-siphon is a type of Backflow preventer and is an essential part of any plumbing installation which is connected in any way to a potable water source. They are required by building codes everywhere.
The anti-siphon valves need to be installed 6 inches HIGHER than the highest sprinkler head or line. This photo shows a very dangerous situation! The only way this would be OK is if there is a separate Backflow preventer properly installed before these valves.