Hi All, If any of you were considering applying for the Cash for Grass program, you should do so right away. The Mojave Water Agency sponsors the program through grants from the State. Their funds are running out for real this time. You have until March 31st to apply for the program. Just one MONTH!
Contact your local water company and they will give you the info on how to apply.
What is wrong with this picture? The photo shows something we find occasionally when we go out and do sprinkler work or landscaping for clients with existing irrigation systems. See the valves are very pretty. Tucked away in the ground in a box so you don’t have to look at them. Very professional looking, right?
These valves are anti-siphon valves. Anti-siphon valves allow water to only flow in one direction. For irrigation purposes, it prevents water from the system from… being siphoned back into the household water supply line. Essentially, it stops unsafe water from entering a clean water supply such as the water that comes from your faucets or shower heads.
Anti-siphon is a type of Backflow preventer and is an essential part of any plumbing installation which is connected in any way to a potable water source. They are required by building codes everywhere.
The anti-siphon valves need to be installed 6 inches HIGHER than the highest sprinkler head or line. This photo shows a very dangerous situation! The only way this would be OK is if there is a separate Backflow preventer properly installed before these valves.
By Cindy Poore
It’s a big undertaking to consider taking out your grass to save on water. I deal with it daily. You want to save on your water bill and reduce the need for maintenance. Rock starts to sound appealing. There are choices that you need to make to do a desert landscape. What kind of plants, what kind of rock or gravel could you get by with that would justify all the effort and money you will need to spend to get it done right? There are lots of decisions to be made and the wrong ones will get you an ugly looking yard that needs just as much if not more maintenance and water.
But what if rock is not all that appealing? Most of us really love our grass. Taking it out is not a pleasant outcome for us. There are some things to consider before you decide to remove your grass.
1. How do you use the space with grass in it now? Is it merely for looks? Do kids, fur kids or others play or walk on it regularly? If so, how would having gravel there affect the use of the space?
2. What will happen when it rains. Most of the time, grass will absorb the rain and keep it from eroding your yard. Having gravel, may divert the rainwater to other areas and cause run-off issues. Think it through. Definitely NEVER use plastic under your gravel which will not allow the rain to penetrate the soil where we need it!
3. Rebates only cover a very small portion of a total landscape redo. What if you don’t have the budget for that? Consider forgoing the rebate and keeping your spray system in place. You can remove the grass you have and replace it with one of several drought tolerant ground covers or the new breed of low water use and low maintenance grasses.
4. How emotionally attached are you to your grass. Some of us just have to have it, others not so much. This should be the determining factor for you
Call Us! We Are Here to Help You With All Your Landscape Needs
(760) 868-6104
Time is Running Out!
It’s December already?! Where does the time go? Getting ready for the holidays and time with family and friends is on everyone’s schedule this time of year. 2015 is on the way out. Did you make some mistakes this year? Not to worry. We all did. But each new day is a chance to do better. As long as we keep getting days given to us, we can work on that. We will turn the page on this chapter in our book in just a few weeks. But it’s not over until it’s over. Make it a good one. Make it a memorable one. Make it one filled with love. You still have time if you are lucky.
“The best thing about endings is knowing that just ahead is the daunting task to start over.”
― Jodi Picoult, Keeping Faith
Bark beetles. They are a big problem here in the Inland Empire and the High Desert for our pines and conifers There are bark beetles that attack pines, arborvitae, cypress, false cypress, junipers, and redwoods and many others). California has over 20 varieties of bark beetles. In years past, our mountain communities of Big Bear, Lake Arrowhead and Wrightwood have been hit hard. There has been a big push in the last few years to cut down the stricken trees to minimize the spread to other trees and the fire potential.
We thought we had crossed the safety mark a few years back and had turned the tide towards getting a handle on them after mass removals of the dead trees. The current drought conditions are making us rethink that as the bark beetles are back with a vengeance due to insufficient water to our trees.
The bark beetle adults are small, hard-bodied insects about the size of a grain of rice and most are dark red, brown, or black. Look for a pattern like buckshot on the bark surface of infested branches or trunks where the new adults have emerged. The adults tunnel through the bark and lay eggs under the bark. The eggs hatch and become larvae that tunnel through the inner bark, where they overwinter, creating large galleries of tunnels where they disrupt the flow of water and nutrients to the tree resulting in dead or dying branches and eventually the entire tree.
The larvae then emerge from the tree as flying adults and they look for new trees to infest resulting in a ruthless cycle of death. Their favored target is a tree that is stressed by drought, improper planting, improper pruning or other conditions.
Because the beetles live in the protected space under the bark, it is very difficult or sometimes impossible to obtain control once the tree is infested. Timing is all important when making applications to prevent infestation.
Prevention is the best way to combat these beetles with proper maintenance and watering. Most people do not water their trees well. They start with one or two little emitters that put out a gallon of water each when ran for an hour, and then they cut down the watering schedule to 10 or 15 minutes a day thinking the trees should be watered the same as a spray system for your lawn. (Hey that’s not right for your lawn either, but that’s another article). 15 minutes with a 1 gallon per hour emitter is 32 ounces. Not very much except for the tiniest of trees.
As the tree grows, it will require a lot more water. A typical tree with a 15 -20 foot spread can use as much as 50 gallons of water a day. BUT you should not water every day either. The best way to water trees is to water infrequently, perhaps 2-3 times a week in summer. Water deeply when you do water so that the soil is wet down at least 12 -14 inches. Depth and frequency will depend on tree type. soil type and weather.
A key component of prevention is to provide proper maintenance and have a licensed pest applicator apply a systemic insecticide to prevent the beetles from getting established. Systemic insecticides are taken in by the tree’s vascular system and distributed throughout the tree so that when a beetle bores into the tree trunk to lay it’s eggs, it is killed by the insecticide, thus preventing it from laying eggs that will hatch into the larvae that will kill the tree. There are many methods of application for the insecticides.
Give us a call. We are licensed pest control applicators and we are experienced to help you with your tree pest issues.
(760) 868-6104